Archive for category Flooring

Renovation with vinyl

If you have always wanted a polished wooden floor in your house but it’s just not practical, there is still a solution in vinyl flooring. No longer associated with horrific patterns, vinyl flooring can offer you a similar look to a real wood floor with a realistic texture.

There are an extensive range of vinyl floor patterns available, replicating many different styles of wooden and mineral floors such as slate and stone.

Vinyl flooring is also now available in a range of different sized planks which need to be glued down to the floor – there is a new range of vinyl which can be clicked into place, facilitating the installation process.

Of course, you may not want a wooden floor design when you choose vinyl, and there are certainly many more options. Developments in the vinyl flooring industry mean that you can pick from finishes such as leather, slate, sandstone and metallic stone.

Choosing the right vinyl flooring company can also mean the benefits of installing the floor is significantly increased. Vinyl flooring is simple and easy to install, similar to a laminate floor, laminate planks can now be slotted and clicked into place. The risk of the flooring being scratched due to footwear is also significantly less, if you choose the right vinyl floor with a protective wear layer; your floor will be virtually scratch resistant and is more likely to withstand indentations.

Spills and stains will also be less stressful as they can be easily wiped or mopped clean. With a vinyl floor, you don’t have to worry about re-varnishing or waxing as you would with a wooden floor. If you live a busy lifestyle, caring for a wooden floor can be time consuming, and so vinyl floors can provide you with many benefits- replicating wooden floors with less hassle and maintenance.

If you are worried about the wet weather in the winter, you don’t have to worry about water, snow or dirt been trodden through onto your floor, as it can easily be mopped or wiped up- not something that is so easily done with a carpet floor. If you have pets, vinyl flooring can also be better suited to your family, if your pet runs through with muddy paws; stains are far more difficult to remove with a carpet.

A vinyl floor can easily be kept on top of by sweeping and damp mopping regularly. It can also save you on vacuuming time and carpet cleaning costs.

If you would like to take a look at some examples of vinyl flooring why not take a look at:

Vinyl Flooring

Wood Flooring vs Carpet

When it comes down to making sure your home is as eco friendly as possible can be sometimes down to just the type of flooring you choose.

The old debate about whether it is better to have a carpet or use wood flooring is still around, but quite often the need for a “wow” factor in any room more often than not can be the major factor when it comes to decided, rather than if it can save you any money on your monthly heating bill.

These days carpet are become increasingly out dated with more and more home owners choosing solid wood flooring, this is due to the increasing variety on the market to choose from. Wood flooring can also be bought in a variety of colours, this can add warmth and texture to your room, with the flooring quality getting better over time it also adds character and value to your home.

Everybody loves the feeling of soft carpet underneath their feet, but there are a few things that we need to consider when it comes to choosing a carpet over wood flooring. Apart from the fact it attracts dirt and dust mites they can very quickly become unattractive if they are not taken care of correctly, and those with children might want to consider the wear and tear the carpet could receive.

If keeping your rooms warm is one of the main factors that you use for deciding against wood flooring, then you need to think again. With the state of the art under floor heating systems that are now available, it is possible to save money and keep your house warm.

The only way you can do this is if you install wood flooring, and it is also becoming the perfect way to have a low maintenance heating system in your home. Due to the fact that under floor heating is so simple there is no working and the chances of it breaking down or failing is minimal.

In conclusion to this we can clearly see that the argument is leaning greatly in favour of wood flooring, with is bonuses of being economical, better looking, easier to maintain and makes no difference to your home heating.
For some great examples of wood flooring take a look at these links:
Hardwood flooring
Solid wood flooring

UV Finishes for Wood Flooring

Wood finishes have come a long way in the last decade.
The original finishes on flooring would be a choice between a factory lacquer, a natural (usually Danish) oil or a wax – both of which needed to be applied after the floor was installed which would add an extra couple of days onto the whole process of getting a new floor.

The Lacquered floors were a very smooth clean finish, however they scratched easily and could often look worn in a short amount of time due to scuff marks which took off the top layer of lacquer. In more recent years the factory finish lacquers have improved greatly so the finish is much more durable, it is also now available in silk matt, gloss or matt sheens which give different looks to the boards.

Natural oil is a well known finish for wood floors, however it has always been known as a “back breaking” process as the oil needs to be worked into the floor, often by hand if done by the homeowner, which would be a long laborious process for most. This was also the same for the wax finish which also required buffing afterwards to give the floor a sheen. Luckily, these two process have been refined to create a much easier to apply finish.

The most recent finish to the market is the UV cured finish. It is available for both lacquered and oiled floors and was originally brought on to the market for the manufacturers to speed up the drying process of the wood floor finishes, as the flooring could be packaged straight away.

Here we will explain the UV oil finish.
The UV oils have a natural oiled finish to them – this is in part to the fact that they are made from a natural oil. The natural oil is mixed with a chemical which, when combined together, become instantly curable under a UV light source.

The combination of the chemical creates a scratch resistant floor – much higher resistant compared to a natural oiled floor. It will also last longer than a naturally oiled floor although the UV oiled flooring will need more maintenance due to the open pore character of the oil.

It is also possible to spot repair a UV oiled floor due to this open pore character – it means that the wood can still breathe like a natural oiled floor so the coating over the top will blend with the original UV oil finish.
As with standard wooden flooring oils, the UV oil is available in a choice of different colours from pale, white tones to dark, even black looking finishes. It can also be applied to all types of timber, from oak, walnut to Maple and even pine. There is also a choice of sheens for the UV oils – matt finish, silk matt and gloss are all available in the whole range so your floor can be finished to your specifications more than a natural oiled floor.
Real Oak Floors has its own manufacturing line which includes a UV finishing system meaning that all the floors available in the collections can be UV oiled on request.

Ever Though About Bamboo Flooring?

Today I am going to temp your interest with bamboo flooring. First I am going to tell you a bit about it.

Bamboo is a type of grass, but not like normal grass, you may be thinking “Grass?…grass is soft and brittle and it’s used for flooring?” Well that would incorrect. Bamboo is very strong, enough so that it is used for construction and houses etc. It also makes for a very nice looking floor once finished. Bamboo is very resilient and flexible, making it the material of choice for many.
bamboo flooring
The installation of bamboo flooring does not require any special. In fact, there are several ways you can lay it: You can float them, nail them down, or glue them on. Bamboo is also easier to produce as flooring than oak because it only takes around three years for it to mature, as opposed to oak which can take up to a hundred years to be fully mature.

As bamboo is a grass we cannot call it a hardwood floor, however, it can last as long as the standard hardwoods we have around, so that’s probably why most people mistake it as such.

To make a flat, solid floor, the bamboo tubes are cut into strips. These are then these are boiled to strip the starch away. The boiled strips proceed to the drying and lamination process, and then milled to become strip floor boards. This is the same process that hardwoods like maple or oak go through. Finally, the strips are treated using a preservative to slow down decay.

There is something about bamboo floors that gives a room an ethnic and earthy feel. Because hardwoods like oak are rather dark and, thus, look too rich and heavy, using bamboo as your flooring makes your space appear lighter, airier, and less contrived.
bamboo flooring natural

Wood Floors and Dogs – Dog Proof Your Floor

Do you own a dog which is putting you off solid wood flooring? Never fear, here are some top tips for dog proofing your flooring.
Dog on a floor
* When your dog comes home from a walk in the park make sure to clean the bottom of all four paws so that the dirt wont ruin or mark the floor.

* It may be funny to watch your lovely doggie sliding around the wood flooring while trying to get footing but will probably just result in scratches – keep the antics and fun outside or ina non wood room.

* Apply a thick layer of clear coating to the boards, this is more for protection of the wood, in contrast to using floor wax which will help the dog get a grip and minimise the reaction to “claw in” tot he wood.

* Keep nails trimmed short to avoid scratches and scuffs in general.

* If there is an area the dog frequents between consider placing rugs etc to help the dog walk more easily.

* Choose distressed flooring, if scratching does occur it wont stand out, in fact it will fit right in with the style.

* If you keep your dog bowls on the floor like most people do then use a mat underneath to protect from the inevitable spills and slobber that will surround the area. Something moisture proof is preferable.

There you have it, one more reason to encourage your purchase of a good wood floor for your home. You will love it and so will the dogs.

10 ways to maintain your wood flooring

Some of the most common questions we get asked at the wood floor blog are asking how to maintain the look of a floor, so we decided to put together some tips on keeping your floor in prime condition for you to enjoy for years to come.

  • Don’t let spills settle on your flooring. Fluids aren’t generally the thing you would want to keep on your hardwood floor, if you leave fluid on the floor for a prolonged period of time this will cause water spots. If there are any spillages clean up the fluids straight away using an absorbent cloth.
  • Always try to follow the floor manufacturer’s recommendations when possible and try to sweep daily, always using a soft fine bristled broom. Sweeping is an important part of maintaining a wooden floor and sweeping daily will help keep things off the floor which may cause scratching.
  • Make sure that you know the type of finish on your wooden floor and follow the correct maintenance procedures for them e.g. Never wax a urethane floor instead use only a very dry damp cloth (to avoid water damage)
  • Place glides (furniture guards/pads) under any furniture on your wooden flooring to avoid scratching the floor underneath. Also place mats at every entrance to prevent people from walking in dirt and grit onto your floor
  • Vacuum regularly, try to vacuum at least 2 times a week to get the loose dirt which may have been missed, please be cautious however as hard plastic and stiff bristles can scratch the finish on your floor.
  • Try to avoid wearing heavy shoes, high heels and sports shoes on your flooring as these can cause dents and indentations on your floor. Also children’s toys can cause damage to your floor, a prime example are racing cars which can scratch the flooring.
  • Don’t over-wax a wax floor, if your floor dulls and you want to restore its shine you may want to invest in a buffer. However it may be best to get suggestions from the floor manufacturer for the specific procedures for your floor.
  • Clean up pet mess quickly, keep food dishes on a mat and keep their nails trimmed to avoid any stains and scratches.
  • Mop regularly using a dry damp mop adding cleaner to the water (we personally recommend the Bona range of cleaners as their quality is fantastic)
  • Cover the floor when decorating so any dropped screws or paint wont damage your flooring, also, when moving heavy furniture slip a piece of cloth or pile under the legs to avoid any scuffing and scratching.

We hope that these tips help you and answer any questions you may have, if you still have any queries please contact us or leave a comment below and we’ll answer any queries to the best of our abilities.

A guide to the installation of Junckers

Suitable Products

20.5mm, 22mm and 14mm clip system floors

22mm and 20.5mm – sports, commercial and domestic

14mm – domestic, light-duty commercial


Please follow these simple instructions

We are concerned that your floor is a success and provides you with many years of trouble free service. Wood is a natural material and is, therefore, subject to infinite variations in colour, texture, knots and grain patterns. Natural timber also contains characteristics which are not found inman-made materials such as surface splits, shakes etc., and sometimes filling is necessary. These are accepted as being normal features of many of our products and are not detrimental to the performance of the floor.

Wood is a hygroscopic material. Changes in humidity will cause natural expansion and contraction of the floor. Small gaps may occur. Details given in this brochure are also shown in the Junckers T I system available in CD Rom version or on the Junckers internet site at www.junckers.com

Also see information sheets, Ref: C2.1.1, C5.1.1 and C3.1.1

Stage 1

Before, During and After installation – A dry environment

In the area where the floor is to be stored and laid, conditions must be the same as expected when the area will be in use. The room must be weathertight, heating system in operation and wet trades (eg. plaster and cement) must be fully dry. Any damp problems must be remedied first.
The relative humidity of the air should remain between 35% – 65% RH. Heating and/or ventilation may be necessary to maintain conditions. This is especially important in newly built or renovated properties, or those which may remain unoccupied for some time after the floor is laid.

The floor should be delivered as near as possible to the time when it is to be laid. The polythene wrapping is left intact during storage and the flooring must not be allowed to “acclimatise”. The polythene wrapping is not waterproof and must not be considered to be protection against damp. Packs can be opened for inspection upon delivery, but should be resealed until the time of fixing.

Fig 1

Stage 2

Sub-floors – General notes and preparation

Junckers Clip System Floors can be laid upon most types of dry, level sub-floor, including sand and cement screed, and timber such as floor boards, chipboard etc.
Sand and cement screeds

Screed

Fig 1

These must be flat and fully dry. This means the moisture content must be maximum 5% or 75% Relative Humidity. (Fig. 1). On ground and all cementitious floors, a surface moisture barrier of Junckers SylvaThene polythene, Sisalkraft Moistop 728 or PolyLay must be laid with the joints well lapped and taped, and turned up at the walls. The screed must be levelled to a tolerance of no more than a 3mm gap showing under a 3m straight edge. A self-levelling compound may help to achieve this tolerance if the base is found to be uneven. (Fig. 1).

Timber sub-floors

These may be floor boards, chipboard, ply or similar. Ensure the floor has adequate protection against damp from below. If the floor is on joists, ensure the void below is ventilated to building regulation standards. Air-bricks must not be blocked. The moisture content of the timber base must be 12%–14%. It must be soundly fixed and flat. The base must be levelled to no more than a 3mm gap showing beneath a 3m straight edge. If the base is unlevel, it is sometimes possible to achieve a flat surface by sanding or securely nailing down plywood of sufficient thickness.

Mixed sub-floors

Junckers Clip System floors can be laid onto a base made from more than one material eg. part screed, part timber. Clip System Floors may be laid onto polystyrene insulation, with a moisture membrane underneath. No additional underlay should be necessary. Polystyrene must be tongue and groove jointed and have a minimum density of 20kg/m3 for 22mm and 20.5mm floors, and 40kg/m3 for 14mm floors.

Stage 3

Choosing underlays

The range of underlays is as follows:

For 22mm, 20.5mm and 14mm floors PolyLay An underlay and moisture barrier. 1.5mm thick for use in domestic and commercial installations. Offers good step sound absorption and cushioning. 2mm For commercial or domestic floors SylvaFoam laid onto timber sub-floors and 2mm where a moderate amount of shock SylvaFelt absorption is required. Additional moisture barrier is necessary if laid onto cementitious floors.

For 22mm and 20.5mm floors 5mm Sports or multi-use applications MultiFoam where good shock absorption is needed. Moisture barrier is necessary when used over cementitious floors. 10mm Sports floors where a floor fully ProFoam complying with standards BS7044 Part 4 and DIN 18032 Part 2 is required. Moisture barrier is necessary when used over cementitious floors. Note: With underfloor heating systems, a second layer of Junckers Sylvathene is also required. See separate Guide E4.1.

Selecting the correct size of clip

Three Clip sizes are available, each to suit the humidity level expected when the building will be in use. Select the Clip size using the table below.

Site Conditions Relative Humidity Label Colour Clip Type Clip Size
Dry, well heated constant conditions 35-50% Green One Hole 129.1mm
Mostly well heated, some fluctuations 45-65% Yellow Two Holes 129.4mm
Intermittently / rarely heated 60-90% Mauve Three Holes 129.8mm

CLIP CONSUMPTION

Domestic installations: 13 clips per m2
Commercial and Sports installations: 17 clips per m2
Wide Board Range Floors (20.5mm): 17 clips per m2

Stage 4

Expansion allowances

Gaps will be necessary around the floor’s perimeter and ALL fixed points. (Fig. 2).

Gaps at “A” must be left empty. For 22mm and 20.5mm floors, these gaps must be 2mm for every metre of floor width at each side, minimum gap 15mm. For 14mm floors, 3mm for every metre of floor width at each side, minimum gap 15mm.
Gaps at board ends, B, are to be filled with Junckers Cork or Rubber Strip, ensure the strips are a close fit in the gaps. The size of these gaps to be 1mm for every metre of floor length, minimum 10mm at each end. The gaps and strips are usually covered with a skirting, quadrant or scotia moulding, available from Junckers.

See also “Edge Details and Other Tips”.

Fig 2

Fig 2

Stage 5

Installing the floor

When installing a surface moisture barrier, ensure the sub-floor is free from loose particles.

Fig 3

Fig 3

Unroll the moisture barrier and extend it up the walls just over the finished height of the skirting. (To be trimmed off after the skirtings are fixed). (Fig. 3). Ensure the moisture content of the cementitious base is less than 5%. It is not possible to cover up a damp problem with a moisture barrier. It will protect the Junckers floor from residual moisture only. For SylvaThene and Sisalkraft, edges must be lapped by 100mm and taped with Junckers Waterpoof Tape. Sisalkraft is placed black side downwards. The underlay is then placed over this. There is no need to fix the underlay or moisture barrier to the base. PolyLay is laid felt side downwards with the polythene edges lapped. No additional moisture barrier should be necessary.
Laying the first row of boards

See Figures 4 (Domestic) and 5 (Sports and Commercial Floors). Use temporary spacer blocks to form the correct size expansion gap between the wall and the first board. Note: these must be removed upon completion.

Fig 4

Fig 4

Note Clip spacings in Figs 4 and 5.

Fig 5

Fig 5

If the wall is not straight, it may be necessary to scribe the first row of boards to suit. Check the expansion gap can easily be covered. With a hammer, tap the correct end of the Clip into the groove on the back of the board. This is the end with the holes. The plain end of the Clip must point towards the board’s tongue, as shown in Fig 6.

Fig 6

Fig 6

Note: take care to align the Clip correctly before hammering.

One firm tap with the hammer is usually necessary. Excessive or repeated hammer blows may cause the Clips to become loose. Note: The Clips and boards must NEVER be fixed directly to the sub-floor! Lay the board in place, tongue pointing away from the wall. Continue to the end of the row, cutting the last board to length. The offcut will be used later. All board header (end) joints must be glued with Junckers SylvaFix Adhesive. Excess adhesive must be wiped from the surface with a damp cloth (Fig. 7).

Never apply glue to the long joints (except last board – see below).

Fig 7

Fig 7

Second and subsequent rows

The off-cut from one row of boards is then used to begin the next row. Ensure the board and stave (strip) end joints are staggered to produce a random strip pattern. They must not fall into line on adjacent boards (Fig. 8). Ensure the stave ends on adjoining boards are no closer than 80mm and header (board end) joints are no closer than 250mm. When tapping Clips into the new board, take care to ensure they are no closer than 50mm to the Clips on the last row.

Fig 8

Fig 8

To lay subsequent rows of boards, fit the Clips as before and offer the tongue and groove together. Using a wooden block, (or installation kit for 14mm floors), gently tap the joint together, working evenly along the board, taking care not to put weight upon the new board until the joint is nearly closed. Moderate downward pressure will then push the Clips home. With some types of Clip it is normal for there to be small gaps between the boards. The last row of boards will probably require cutting to width to fit. This row is glued along the tongue and groove joint only if a Clip cannot be fixed and is the only board to be glued this way. Do not forget to leave the appropriate clear expansion gap. Use a joint puller to fully close the joint (Fig. 9).

Fig 9

Fig 9

Finishing the job

Remove all temporary wooden spacers at the perimeter.

Edge details and other tips

1. The Perimeter Gaps can usually be covered with Junckers skirting, scotia or quadrant. These are usually nailed, screwed or glued to the wall or existing skirting. Large installations such as sports halls, due to the relative size of expansion gaps, may require special section skirtings or cover-strip edge details.

Fig 10 a

Fig 10 a

2.  Radiator Pipes

Drill a hole in the board to accommodate the radiator pipe. The space around the pipe must be the same as the expansion gap at
the wall (Fig. 10 (a) and (b)). A tapered wedge is then cut from the board as shown and this is glued back into place after the board is laid. The gap around the pipe is then covered with a Junckers radiator pipe cover, available in hardwood or plastic.

Fig 10 b

Fig 10 b

3.  Door Frames and Architraves

The boards must be fitted under door frames and architraves, allowing the appropriate expansion gaps. Use an off-cut of flooring plus underlay to make the cut at the correct level (Fig. 11).

Fig 11

Fig 11

4. Door Thresholds

An expansion allowance will usually be necessary. Where levels do not change, the gap can be covered with a Junckers Threshold Strip in hardwood or polished brass. Where levels reduce, a Junckers Ramp section may be suitable. To ensure the expansion of the floor is not restricted, ramps are best fitted to the edge of the Junckers boards and not the sub-floor. The ramp can be supported by hardboard or ply instead of underlay if the underlay is 2mm or thicker. This would also apply to junctions with mat wells. Floors over 12m wide, or those in irregularly shaped rooms should be laid starting from the centre. A special Double Clip is available and is used with a loose tongue which is glued to one side (Fig. 12).

Fig 6

Fig 12

These methods are also useful for floors which are laid diagonally or where changing the laying direction.

Material Selection

Junckers Floors are graded in accordance with established criteria. However, it must be expected that for certain grades of flooring, the laying process will include some on site filling, selection and making good. Factory filling may not always provide a perfect result as it may become dislodged during the handling and laying process. Junckers are able to provide tubes of filler for this purpose. As a general rule, most floors will require a 3% allowance for cutting and selection.

Technical Assistance

Junckers can provide a full range of technical assistance for anyone who is specifying or laying Junckers floors. Contact our Witham Office.

Cleaning and maintenance

Use only recommended Junckers cleaning and maintenance products upon the floor. Maintenance instructions are available from your supplier or direct from Junckers. Do not leave puddles of water to dry upon the surface, as moisture damage may occur. Junckers cannot be held responsible for problems associated with lacquers, oils and cleaning products from other manufacturers. NB Every Junckers product is manufactured from selected material and is subject to the Company’s stringent quality control procedures. The Company cannot take  responsibility for the installation of their systems which is dependent upon the condition of the sub-floor and the standard of work of individual contractors.

Additional Points To Remember

  1. Wood will expand and contract with changes in the environment. Therefore, expect to see wooden floorboards close together in the summer months and slightly apart in the  winter.
  2. In kitchens, Agas or similar heat sources will dry the environment which may result in small gaps appearing between boards.
  3. Use 22mm or 20.5mm boards in conservatories.
  4. Junckers lacquered boards laid in kitchens can have an additional coat of Junckers Isolacquer, Junckers STRONG or Junckers Sport High Performance lacquer applied immediately after installation. This helps to reduce the effects of spillages and splashes upon the floor. Spillages must be wiped up immediately.
  5. Junckers floors are not suitable for use in bathrooms or other wet areas. Water left upon the surface can cause damage.
  6. Junckers 14mm, 20.5mm and 22mm Clip System Floors can be laid over most types of underfloor heating. Contact Junckers for specific recommendations and refer to information sheets ref: E 4.0 and E 4.1.
  7. The Clip System must NOT be used directly over joists or battens. Boards must be laid onto an existing subfloor. 22mm and 20.5mm boards can, however, be secret nailed to joists or battens, see separate instructions.
  8. The polythene backing on the underside of the boards is a balancing membrane and must not be removed.
  9. Clip System floors are floating floors and must never be directly fixed down to the sub-floor.
  10. Due to the staining process, SylvaRed colour may vary from batch to batch.
Source : Junckers

Junckers Solid Flooring

Hardwood Flooring

Hardwood Flooring

Junckers solid hardwood flooring systems offer a fantastic range of pre-finished hardwood flooring which provide a large palette of colours and grains that allow great scope for creativity making individual solutions, unconventional combinations and innovative details possible. Junckers new Ultra Matt boards offer the natural matt look of an oiled finish with the strength of a polyurethane lacquer and with simple, quick and accurate floor installation, Junckers has many advantages.

Junckers flooring

Junckers flooring

Founded in Denmark in 1930 Junckers is now one of Europe’s leading producers of solid hardwood flooring. All timber is sourced from managed forests which reflects Junckers attitude towards forest management and its felling policy.

With the company’s unique press-drying process – which was developed almost 40 years ago – timber is strengthened and has increased stability. Recently the company has developed new staining techniques to create a wider choice of natural effects, marketed as the SylvaKet, SylvaRed and SylvaColor ranges.

With the accurate factory-machining of Junckers flooring, the need for site sanding after laying is eliminated therefore saving time on what would be a time consuming part of laying your floor.

Wood waste from the company’s plants is used as a fuel for the factory thus economising on energy.

Sylvared

Sylvared

Description

Junckers have 11 hardwoods available, these are;

  • Beech
  • Oak
  • Jarrah
  • Black Oak
  • Ash
  • Sylvaket
  • Sylvared
  • Sylvacolor
  • Jatoba
  • Merbau
  • Maple

Each of these are offered in various thicknesses, styles, grades and finishes, giving you a wide choice. Junckers hardwood flooring is supplied as 2 rows of staves assembled by means of a double dovetail joint into one board. The Junckers exclusive Quick Clip system has been developed for use over an existing level sub-floor, without the need for battens. There is also a wide board range which has been developed for a traditional look which is available in;

  • Oak
  • Merbau
  • Maple
  • Jatoba
  • Ash
  • Dark Ash
  • Nordic Ash
Oak Boulevard Wide Board

Oak Boulevard Wide Board

Sports Floors

Junckers have 7 floor installation systems which are available as well as a portable sports floor. Each of the systems offer different characteristics making them particularly suitable for the requirements of a specific application. The SylvaSport board is specially produced for these sports systems.

New Era levelling system

Junckers New Era system is for use where it is necessary to overcome the uneveness of existing timber or cocrete floors.

Acoustic Systems

Junckers offer 2 acoustic systems, The New Era Acoustic cradle system and the Clip system. Both of which meet the requirements of Document E of the Building Regulations.

Accessories

Junckers offer a full range of accessories including floor teatments and cleaning materials

Junckers Basefill

Junckers Basefill

Dimensions

Flooring is available either 14 or 22mm thick. Individual boards are 129mm wide and 1830/3700mm long

Appearance

Flooring is available either unfinished for site finishing or factory-finished with either several coats of hard-wearing polyurethane lacquer or with controlled saturation by rich penetrating oils.

Junckers and Real Oak Floors

Real Oak Floors is proud to be an authorised retailer for Junckers Ltd. We stock all of Junckers products and have regular special offers on Junckers flooring saving you money. If you have any enquiries about Junckers floors please dont hesitate to call one of our helpful sales team on 0844 848 6840

Junckers Catalogues & PDFs

'Exclusive Collection' Range Announced

The new Exclusive collection has now been announced by Real Oak Floors. These will be available in widths up to 450mm and lengths up to 7.5m. The full range along with pricing information will follow shortly.

Creative Collection Now Available in 240mm width!

The creative collection at Real Oak Floors has now been released in a 240mm width. It is available over the phone and will be available on the website soon.